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c_w
10-06-2006, 01:26 PM
The Rear Mounts
Anyone who has changed the rear shocks/top mounts on the M Coupe will know that to do it properly requires a ridiculous amount of rear trim to be removed just so you can access the 2 13mm nuts holding the rear shock on. It means a job that could be done in 5mins takes about 1hr as you unravel the layered trim in the boot to get down to the mounts. I saw an advert for the Rogue top mounts with a picture and it instantly looked a very easy thing to make yourself; to allow the top mounts to be bolted from inside the wheel-arch instead of inside the car so removal takes much less time and no trim has to be removed.

The Rogue top mounts use a stiffener plate with threaded studs tacked on; a stiffener plate like this is available from BMW for a couple of pounds (Item 16, REINFORCEMENT PLATE 51718413359 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CK92&mospid=48084&btnr=33_0459&hg=33&fg=45). I already had these from my old Z3 so I simply tapped out the studs from the original rear top mounts (they come out easily) and tack-welded them to the reinforment plates, placed them inside the car and bolted the rear shock (with the now studless mount) up from inside the wheel arch. I used a layer of silicon on the reinforcement plates so that they will stick to the wheel arch inside the car which should keep them in place enough when unbolted (I'm not sure how the Rogue mounts stay fixed inside the car/arch with the shock removed?).

I say free as it didn't cost me anything to do as I already had the bits (I bought the reinforcement plates when I had my 2.8 Z3) and they aren't "rebuildable" like the Rogue ones but the rear E36 M3 top mounts are so cheap from BMW you could buy 3 pairs for the price. But this could be done for less than £10 as long as you have or know someone with a welder just to tack the studs on to the plates.

inside
26-06-2009, 11:24 PM
I coincidently wandered to this old thread after looking for sth else.. I also plan to do the same with top mounts and have one question regarding reinforcement plates. Do they need to be cut on the one side so they fit to coupe, or do they fit straight on the arch? After seeing this picture, it seems they must be cut?

The pic: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/ragforever/P1020206.jpg

pdwarren
27-06-2009, 04:58 PM
They'll fit straight on without cutting. Not sure what car that's a photo of, but on the MC there's no issue with clearance.

Paul

inside
27-06-2009, 07:50 PM
Thanks for clarifying! Found this picture in another RSM thread and tought its from coupe... :o

pdwarren
27-06-2009, 08:02 PM
Thanks for clarifying! Found this picture in another RSM thread and tought its from coupe... :o

Actually I think it is. Here's a photo of mine:

http://www.ex-parrot.com/~pdw/mcoupe/right-top-mount-in.jpg

I agree that it doesn't look like it will work, but the reinforcement plate will sit flush without modification.

Paul

ZZZEMMCO
28-06-2009, 07:55 PM
Some great advice on the how to install the mounts.BUT-------------sometimes the advice forgets to remind you of the basic,s "PAY Attention" when replacing the Trim--nearside!!.
Two months later in Switzerland my indicaters pack up, visits to a dealer approx £260 and no cure, then wipers go---dealer bypasses circuits to give indicaters back--nightmare!!!!!!No wipers with rain forecast over All of Europe on way back to UK.

A local Autosparks in UK checks out circuits and wiring loom to a problem NS rear light cluster so trim removed--------and for rouge fitting the wires were pinched to earth out due to movement and had chaffed cable over 1000m to short out and blow fuses.Always Pay attention to your reinstallation of original circuit direction, if in doubt protect the cable.

coupe fan
29-06-2009, 12:32 AM
and for rouge fitting the wires were pinched to earth out due to movement and had chaffed cable over 1000m to short out and blow fuses.Always Pay attention to your reinstallation of original circuit direction, if in doubt protect the cable.

Is it just me???:lol: