Mirror Base Refurbishment DIY

[-Keith-]

It seems a common problem for the aluminium bases on our mirrors to oxidise, causing unsightly bubbling on an otherwise tidy car...

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3360.jpg


I tackled this over the last few days, without too much bother at all. You just need time and patience.

You will need;
1. Allen Keys
2. Torx keys
3. An aerosol can of matched colour (Halfords can make one up for you for about £12)
4. An aerosol can of acid etch primer (normal primer won't key to the alumium as well as this stuff)
5. An aerosol can of clear lacquer
5. Posidriv Screwdriver
6. Flathead Screwdrivers
7. Masking Tape
8. Long Nosed Pliers


Step 1 - Glass Removal

This can be a bit fiddly, and requires you to push the top of the mirror in as far as it will go, so you can just about see underneath the bottom of the glass and into the guts of the mirror body.

You the need to take a small flathead driver and try to ease the black clips of the mirror itself, off from the white mirror bracket. You will only be able to do the bottom 2;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3402.jpg


This picture shows the black clips to identify, and how they are constructed;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3400.jpg


This picture shows the mirror bracket you are trying to pop them off from - (note the 4 white studs the clips attach to);

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3401.jpg


Once you have popped the bottom two off, get you hand behind the glass, and using appropriate force, try to pull the glass off from the top two. This will require some wriggling, as I could not access the top clips at all in the same manner I reached the bottom - the mirror simply does not move far inward enough at the bottom to allow a screwdriver in at the top.

Once the glass is off, simply pull the two wires of the heated glass off. Use some long nose pliers if need be, and put the glass aside safe.

Now the glass is off, you will see this;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3398.jpg


Undo the four screws (posidriv), this will release the motor mechanism and allow you access to the back of the motor unit.

There are four terminals in the back - each wire can simply be pulled out using long nose pliers. You don't need to remember where they go, as the instructions of what goes where are moulded onto the back of the motor unit (as you can just make out in the picture);

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3397.jpg


Once these have been removed, put the motor aside.

Feed the heated mirror cable back into the stalk - this will make the daisy-chained connection from the +/- easier to pull through from the other side.

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3358.jpg


Step 2 - Body Removal

Pull out mirror toward you (away from the car) and twist.
Passenger side you pull out and turn clockwise
Driver's side you pull out and turn anti clockwise

This will reveal two hex head (Allen head) bolts which simply unscrew.

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3356.jpg

Pull the body away from the car, pull off the black rubber base, and gently pull the wires through;

Note the two heated mirror cables that you have fed back through coming out; pull these with the main cable and it'll all come out easily...
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3357.jpg


The body is now free!

For protection against the elements (as the painting steps take days), I cleaned up the exposed wires, and taped them together. This will also make it easier to thread them back into the mirror upon reattachment.

NOTE; Be sure to put a little insulation tape over each metal crimp though, else they will short if you start the car up :thumbsup:

I then covered the hole in the door with a plastic bag and taped it to the side of the car using masking tape, as snow was forecast and I didn't want unwanted moisture getting in;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3381.jpg


Whilst all the innards of the mirror were out, I cleaned them all up using G101;

There are a couple of door components there too - ignore them!
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3371-1.jpg

[-Keith-]

Step 3 - Prepping The Bases Ready For Paint

You cannot actually separate the base from the mirror body, as the internal bracket will not fit out of the neck... (The ordinary Z3 mirrors are two-piece, so I believe they can be taken apart). On the ///M mirrors, we must just undo the 4 torx bolts that fix the bracket to the body, and then feed the bracket as far out through the neck as it can go. I found turning it 90 degrees allowed it come out the furthest.

Once in a suitable position, tape the bracket in place, to stop it from moving around;

These were taken at the end, when all finished and painted, but you can see how I did it;
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3390.jpg

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3391.jpg


Once all bound in place with tape, mask off everything else except the base (I put a freezer bag over each body and taped the rest up), ready for prep.

Using some heavy grit abrasive paper, I attacked the worst of the oxidisation, and then once I got down to the metal, I used varying degrees of wet and dry (200, 400, 800) until I had a smooth transition between paint and metal.

Make sure you get rid of every single bit off oxidised aluminium (the white milky stuff), else it'll come back.

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3361.jpg


De-grease the surface, and the allow it to dry thoroughly - again, any trapped moisture will allow the bubbling to return.

Once thoroughly degreased and dry, you can get on with the painting.


Step 4 - Paint

You must use acid etch primer to allow a good key to the aluminium.

Do one good layer of primer, and allow to dry thoroughly for a good 8 hours - in front of a heater would be even better.

Then use very fine (800 and 1200 grit) wet and dry paper with water to smooth the primed surface - the smoother you make each layer of paint, the better the end result will be.

Once done, dry thoroughly and repeat with a second coat of primer. Again, allow to dry bone dry, so that you can wet and dry it smooth once more - this time make sure it has a very smooth finish, as paint is next.

After smoothing;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3374.jpg


OK. Now the tricky bit, where you will make or break the final finish - Paint!

What works best for me is a light, constant spray. Have a few trial sprays with the can, just to get used to the feel of the paint can and nozzle.

Once you've nailed the fine spray, whilst holding the mirror in one hand make passes with the spray can, whilst rotating the mirror to ensure all surfaces are evenly covered.

Don't spray on too heavy, else the paint will, run, drip and get air bubbles in it - if this happens, you will have to leave it to dry thoroughly for a day, just so you can sand it back down and start again.

Once you have done one coast, allow to harden overnight.

Lightly sand with very fine wet and dry (1200/1500) using water to lubricate. This will be the last time you sand the surface, so what you do here will determine the final finish. Degrease and dry thoroughly.

Now for the second and final coat of paint. Repeat the step above with regard to spraying - light spray, nice and even, make sure everything is covered.

Allow to dry in front of a gentle heater, or overnight.

Final stage; lacquer. This is much easier than paint, but the same rules apply as if it were paint - make it nice and even, covering everything.

Repeat for a second coat, allow to dry overnight - this was the final coat, and must be left to dry thoroughly, else handling it too early may leave fingerprints in the soft bottom layers of paint/lacquer.

You should be left with an immaculate finish like this;

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3386.jpg

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3392.jpg

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3393.jpg


Happy? :cheers2:

Now, remove all masking and if you want, apply a coat of wax.

Realign the bracket in the mirror body, and replace the four torx screws.


Step 5 - Refitting Mirrors

Same as reversal.

1. Feed cables through the rubber base and into the mirror.
2. Fit rubber base to the bottom of the mirror, align, and tighten the two hex bolts attaching the mirror to the car nice and tight.
3. Pull mirror outward, and swivel back to the original position.
4. Re-terminate the wires into the motor unit using the long nose pliers.
5. Screw motor unit onto body.
6. Attach heated mirror wires.
7. Push mirror back onto clips (can be tricky, but persist).

Polish everything up, and admire your 'as-new' bases. :hurray:

Note the snow in the background... I cleaned the car with hot water before I reassembled, as snow was totally covering the car! Was absolutely frozen by the end of it all!
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3403.jpg

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3404.jpg

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3405.jpg


Hope you have found this guide helpful, and saved a few quid doing it yourself.

Keith.

[danp]

Excellent job done/write-up/pics - thanks - might even have a go at mine at some point, tho' only a little bubbling.

[miketheman2k]

Thanks Keith, you're an asset to the forum! :thumbsup:

Do you wet & dry the final paint surface before lacquering? I assume you do but you didn't mention?

[-Keith-]

Thanks buddy :thumbsup:

No - you do not wet and dry the final layer of paint - you don't want to disturb it. If you have wet and dried all previous layers of primer/paint, the surface will be smooth enough to take one final layer of paint without taking on the 'orange-peel' appearance. The subsequent layers of lacquer will take up any uneveness, and give a smooth finish similar to that of the original paint finish.

[miketheman2k]

Thanks buddy :thumbsup:

No - you do not wet and dry the final layer of paint - you don't want to disturb it. If you have wet and dried all previous layers of primer/paint, the surface will be smooth enough to take one final layer of paint without taking on the 'orange-peel' appearance. The subsequent layers of lacquer will take up any uneveness, and give a smooth finish similar to that of the original paint finish.

Ah right, thanks!

[ZiggyCol]

Keith

Out of interest what kind of paints were you using ?

[-Keith-]

Keith

Out of interest what kind of paints were you using ?

What kind of paints?

-Grey Acid Etch Primer
-Halfords Bespoke Colour Match - you just go in with your paint code, and they make it up for you
-Clear Lacquer

All aerosol.

[pdwarren]

I'll set up a "knowledge base" forum.

If anyone knows of other posts that they'd like to see added, please PM me.

[-Keith-]

Good write up with very useful pics and instructions.

If any mods read this thread, this is the type of thing that should be in a read only "How To" board somewhere within the forum. A How To board would remove the need to search the whole forum for things like this.

Great idea. We need our own Coupe specific DIY/'How To' section.

I've done the text already for a doorcard removal, and just need to add a couple photo's.

I'll set up a "knowledge base" forum.

If anyone knows of other posts that they'd like to see added, please PM me.

Brilliant. This should become very useful. :thumbsup:

[steve1968]

Very good write up , one question though , is it neccesary to remove the mirror glass etc ?

[dave p]

I think to do a good refurb you will need to remove the whole mirror from the car, I recently removed mine and after 11 years on the car they came off easily - the main thing to remember is lift the mirror slightly
as you rotate otherwise the mirror base assembly can snap. The mirror glass is just help in with plastic clips and as per Keiths instructions will come off with a bit of force.

[Steely]

How much aprox should the materials cost (primer, lacquer and colour) ?
Some nasty bubbling on my drivers side mirror, its really doing my head in, do 't like looking in that mirror!
I was quoted £90 by a local spray shop, but i would need to take it off and put it back on for that, i will see if they will lower the price if i do most of the prep work too, otherwise, if the stuff doesn't cost too much, im tempted to give it a go.

[dave p]

How much aprox should the materials cost (primer, lacquer and colour) ?
Some nasty bubbling on my drivers side mirror, its really doing my head in, do 't like looking in that mirror!
I was quoted £90 by a local spray shop, but i would need to take it off and put it back on for that, i will see if they will lower the price if i do most of the prep work too, otherwise, if the stuff doesn't cost too much, im tempted to give it a go.
I would think you can spend £50 on materials (acid etch primer/top coat/lacquer/sandpaper etc) - I paid £100 for both mirrors to be painted from a bodyshop but these were new and didnt need much prep work.
If you do remove the mirrors yourself dont be tempted to turn them back into the closed position as its difficult to move them back when off the car.

[Fat Tony]

Slightly off topic... is the passenger side mirror heated or is it just the driver's side?

I ask because I removed the passenger side at weekend to investigate why the electronic adjustment wasn't working. Mine only has the small loom with the 4 wires contained in it - not the 2 black ones that are separate to that loom shown in Keith's photo here:

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/ksoundwerx/DSCF3358.jpg

Oh, and what a hack job a previous owner has done of the mirror wiring - amazes me why people don't fix simple things like this properly. No soldering or connectors, no shrink wrap, just twisted together and a pathetic, half-hearted stab with insulating tape :rolleyes:

[dave p]

I am sure both sides are heated Tony

[Fat Tony]

I am sure both sides are heated Tony

Cheers Dave. I'll go wire hunting in the door at weekend then mate :thumbsup: Not that I'm likely to ever need the heated functionality, but nice to have things as they should be.

[Spooks]

This has been a great help but I do have one question - how the hell do you get the mirror to clip back onto the motor as per Keiths guide - "Step 5 - Refitting Mirrors, Point 7. Push mirror back onto clips (can be tricky, but persist)."?!?!

I have tried but just cant get them on and since its now very dark and getting cold im giving up for the night!

Any pointers VERY much appreciated!

[Steely]

Just takes a bit of "not so gentle" persuasion, I pushed the bottom clips on, which you can do by holding it all still, mirror at an angle you can see behind, then its just a case of pushing the tops in, first time it does feel like it might break.


This has been a great help but I do have one question - how the hell do you get the mirror to clip back onto the motor as per Keiths guide - "Step 5 - Refitting Mirrors, Point 7. Push mirror back onto clips (can be tricky, but persist)."?!?!

I have tried but just cant get them on and since its now very dark and getting cold im giving up for the night!

Any pointers VERY much appreciated!

[Spooks]

After a bit of advice I sprayed some silicone spray onto the clips on the back of the mirror and on the motor. Slight bit of pressure and they clipped straight on!