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    Well I went to visit my car in the BMW hospital today....... F@kin hell spoke to the body shop manager and had a look at my car the back chassis arm on the nearside had tore also the whole rear end is off the newboot floor and leg is waiting to be put in I've took some photos on my phone which I'll post later. The bodyshop manager says I'll get a certificate when it's done if I was paying he says I'd get no change from 5.5k eeeeek. Hopefully get it back in 2 weeks
    [GROWING OLD IS COMPULSARY ---- GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL

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    • Just out of interest. How many of these repairs have BMW covered on cars with H&R ARBs fitted?

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      • Mine plus solid top mounts and kv3
        [GROWING OLD IS COMPULSARY ---- GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL

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        • Car is done

          Picked the car up today , every thing as expected the rear silencer not square on one side so it's going back in on Monday supposed to pick up the bodywork gaurantee then too if I get it I'll scan it and post it up
          [GROWING OLD IS COMPULSARY ---- GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL

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          • please do get these scans up ragerover, i'm planning to take on my local dealer over the next few weeks just gathering info etc..

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            • Does anyone know of anyone in the South East who can carry out the strenghtening work to avoid this happening?

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              • Mine ZMC is in at Munich Legends having some gearbox work carried out.
                Just had the call to say that they've noticed the boot welds failing and cracking.
                Looks like i'm in need of a sympathetic stealer () in the Bucks/Berks area - any suggestions ..... ?
                The M Coupe ... For those who understand, no explanation is needed. For those who do not understand, no explanation is possible.

                Now ... S54: Sapphire Black/Black-Black/HK+6/Cruise/Sun Roof/H~Lamp wash///ACS Road Suspension/Rogue Engineering rear top mounts/Braided clutch hose
                RIP ... S50: Artic Silver/Black-Grey/HK+6/Cruise/Side 'bags/Grad Tint///ACS Short Shift/Strong Strut/K&N/HIDs & Angels

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                • Floor and diff mount

                  In January 2009 Randy Forbes fixed my subframe area. He did beautiful work. I track it at DEs; it is stiff and handles beautifully. He also sells a precut kit someone else can install. Highly recommended.

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                  • I've just noticed mine has failed, thankfully not in an advanced state. Ever since my mishap at Donington (I selected 2nd instead of 4th down Craners and the rear wheels locked and I slid off a bit) I've noticed a creaking noise at the back. It sounds like a loose piece of plastic trim inside the boot when you set off, and sometimes change to 2nd gear, but I had the windows down and it's actually louder outside the car. I've not driven it much and don't really drive it hard on the road so can only assume the major force of the wheels locking at 80ish has broken some of the welds on the boot floor directly above where the diff bush hanger is. I poked the boot floor with my finger and it made the same noise.

                    I'm going to drill out and re-well it but also strengthen it by adding more welds and perhaps some plating too.

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                    • Originally posted by c_w View Post
                      I've just noticed mine has failed, thankfully not in an advanced state. Ever since my mishap at Donington (I selected 2nd instead of 4th down Craners and the rear wheels locked and I slid off a bit) I've noticed a creaking noise at the back. It sounds like a loose piece of plastic trim inside the boot when you set off, and sometimes change to 2nd gear, but I had the windows down and it's actually louder outside the car. I've not driven it much and don't really drive it hard on the road so can only assume the major force of the wheels locking at 80ish has broken some of the welds on the boot floor directly above where the diff bush hanger is. I poked the boot floor with my finger and it made the same noise.

                      I'm going to drill out and re-well it but also strengthen it by adding more welds and perhaps some plating too.
                      Chris,

                      I wouldn't say a single "incident" has caused this on your car, although it's always the straw that breaks the camel's back. It will be the cumulative effect of the entire "history" of your car causing metal fatigue. Why don't you put it into a dealership and see if you can get it repaired under goodwill? Remember, our cars are ///M cars where "M" stands for "motorsport". You can always fix it yourself if BMW refuse to act. What year of production is your MC?
                      /// Exdos ///
                      "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                      • Originally posted by exdos View Post
                        Chris,

                        I wouldn't say a single "incident" has caused this on your car, although it's always the straw that breaks the camel's back. It will be the cumulative effect of the entire "history" of your car causing metal fatigue. Why don't you put it into a dealership and see if you can get it repaired under goodwill? Remember, our cars are ///M cars where "M" stands for "motorsport". You can always fix it yourself if BMW refuse to act. What year of production is your MC?
                        Mine's a 1999; It's only got a few popped welds so I'm going to do it myself as I never really like leaving my car with a dealer (in fact I never have ) and can't be bothered contesting anything only to lose the car for potentially weeks to have someone else work on it. As well as fix the brocken welds, I'm going to get a new diff hanger bracket (even though the one on the car is fine and so are the welds) to double it up and plate the area to strengthen it. There is a repair piece available as an alternative to a new hanger bracket;



                        I may get this as it looks like you remove the original hanger and weld that whole piece over the current subframe which will drastically improve strength as well as the spread of load. Howver, on realoem a new hanger is $22 but the part above is $344 which seems a bit daft as it's just a box section extra. Whilst my car doesn't need this currently, if I'm going to repair the car I may aswell strengthen it properly.

                        The damage on mine is actually very difficult to spot, it's only this noise since donington that has made me check the car a few times (was the 3rd time I had the car on the ramps that I finally found it was these welds). It could be general fatigue but I think it was the high force of the wheels locking that popped them, I didn't notice the noise throughout the day as I had a helmet on and the R888s are noisier too. I've used the car maybe 5 times since that trackday and it's only made this noise since then.

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                        • Originally posted by c_w View Post
                          I've just noticed mine has failed, thankfully not in an advanced state. Ever since my mishap at Donington (I selected 2nd instead of 4th down Craners and the rear wheels locked and I slid off a bit) I've noticed a creaking noise at the back. It sounds like a loose piece of plastic trim inside the boot when you set off, and sometimes change to 2nd gear, but I had the windows down and it's actually louder outside the car. I've not driven it much and don't really drive it hard on the road so can only assume the major force of the wheels locking at 80ish has broken some of the welds on the boot floor directly above where the diff bush hanger is. I poked the boot floor with my finger and it made the same noise.

                          I'm going to drill out and re-well it but also strengthen it by adding more welds and perhaps some plating too.
                          sorry to hear this chris, at least if can fix it yourself you can do some strengthening at the same time, didnt them improve the boot floor on the S54?, if so can you have a look at one and see what has changed?.

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                          • Originally posted by c_w View Post

                            I may get this as it looks like you remove the original hanger and weld that whole piece over the current subframe which will drastically improve strength as well as the spread of load. Howver, on realoem a new hanger is $22 but the part above is $344 which seems a bit daft as it's just a box section extra. Whilst my car doesn't need this currently, if I'm going to repair the car I may aswell strengthen it properly.
                            You could save yourself $344 by making your own strengthening bracket and diff hanger out of the appropriate grade of steel, or a local sheet metal fabricator would be able to produce something for you cheaply.
                            /// Exdos ///
                            "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                            • chris

                              before you start it yourself have a good look on a ramp i thought mine was 1 tack and a 50mm split in the seam, when they pulled the back cradle off the whole rear leg had gone

                              when i spoke to bmw the age does not matter

                              good lick any how mate
                              [GROWING OLD IS COMPULSARY ---- GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL

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                              • Originally posted by ragerover View Post
                                chris

                                before you start it yourself have a good look on a ramp i thought mine was 1 tack and a 50mm split in the seam, when they pulled the back cradle off the whole rear leg had gone

                                when i spoke to bmw the age does not matter

                                good lick any how mate
                                Thanks! I'll have a closer look at the time - all I can see at this point is two or three popped welds, it took the 3rd look to find them (been having a loud cracking noise when I set off), thought it was the diff or a driveshaft. BMW and some others that have repaired them fully have complete stripped the rear end, I think just removing the diff, exhausts and maybe anti roll bar will be enough and then I'm going to drill out and reweld the failed welds, then drill inbetween the spotwells to add futher welds (they're really far apart for such a structural area).


                                Originally posted by exdos View Post
                                You could save yourself $344 by making your own strengthening bracket and diff hanger out of the appropriate grade of steel, or a local sheet metal fabricator would be able to produce something for you cheaply.
                                Yea I could do, just that that part is pressed perfectly and will fit over the crossmembet to double it up. I've written a letter to BMW - thought last night I may aswell! basically saying that I know BMW have fixed similar aged vehicles this year at great expense to them, all I want is the repair part which I think is a very fair ask!!!

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