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IE Camber & Toe kit - A question for the wise

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  • IE Camber & Toe kit - A question for the wise

    I am about to have my IE camber and toe kit welded onto a spare sub-frame and would be interested in the thoughts of the community on whether to go with the original hole in the middle or either end of the slot.

    I had an alignment check done this afternoon just to give me an idea where i am starting from.

    Left Rear
    Camber: -1º25'
    Toe: 0º07'

    Right Rear
    Camber: -1º13'
    Toe: 0º11'

    Total Toe: 0º18'
    Thrust Angle: -0º02'

    Just as an FYI here is the front

    Left Front
    Camber: -1º29'
    Caster: 7º11'
    Toe: -1º01'

    Right Front
    Camber: -1º03'
    Caster: 7º31'
    Toe: 0º01'

    Total Toe: 0º01'
    Steer Ahead: -0º01'

    The car is running on KWv3 and lowered about 15mm (highest setting) at the front and 20mm at the rear. i has to say I was surprised by the rear negative camber setting. It seem I have less than stock even when lowered. Bizarre!


    I am thinking of putting both toe and camber plates in the middle.

    Thoughts?

  • #2
    Exdos knows a lot about this subject and he has KWV3s. If he doesn't post then it would be worth PMing him.
    Strongstrut CL front brace-Yellowstuff pads/Castrol SRF race brake fluid-Rogue top mounts/Rear support bushes-H&R ARBs-Whiteline droplinks-Bilstein Sport shockers-H&R Springs-Black Halo Angel Eye headlight units-Sachs lightweight flywheel/matching clutch-Supersprint exhaust/race catalysers-BBS RSGTs with Falkens-K&N High Flow Air Filter-Recaro Pole Position seats - Exdos mod - ACS flippers

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    • #3
      Yes. i have seen his posts here and on the US boards. My question is not specific to the KWs.

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      • #4
        I thought the whole point of these is to correct the often excessive negative camber when lowering (and also play about with the toe a bit perhaps), but if you're camber is very good (ie not a lot) I wouldn't bother as it looks like a major amount of hassle!!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by c_w View Post
          I thought the whole point of these is to correct the often excessive negative camber when lowering (and also play about with the toe a bit perhaps), but if you're camber is very good (ie not a lot) I wouldn't bother as it looks like a major amount of hassle!!
          A pain perhaps. I was surprised when I saw the numbers. I have the spare sub-frame and the camber & toe kits so I might a well do it now. Plus I want to replace the RTABs anyway.

          I think I am going to go with the IE advice and use the middle position for toe. For camber I'll bias it so I can take it lower and still dial out the negative camber.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by siwilson View Post
            I am about to have my IE camber and toe kit welded onto a spare sub-frame and would be interested in the thoughts of the community on whether to go with the original hole in the middle or either end of the slot.

            Thoughts?
            The existing values from your alignment check are in the normal range, so before you decide how to weld the IE adjustable caster and toe brackets to the spare subframe you need to decide what you want to achieve from the IE brackets? Do you want to increase/decrease camber and/or toe, because that will dictate how to position the brackets and which way to slot the OEM brackets on the subframe before welding the IE brackets on to them?

            Originally posted by siwilson View Post
            I am thinking of putting both toe and camber plates in the middle.
            How would that work? The IE camber and toe kit comes with 8 (4 pairs) of slotted brackets, so how can you put both toe and camber plates onto the middle OEM brackets? You need to weld the IE brackets so that you adjust camber on the inner most brackets and toe on the outer most brackets on the subframe.
            Last edited by exdos; 06-06-2011, 09:22 AM.
            /// Exdos ///
            "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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            • #7
              Originally posted by exdos View Post
              The existing values from your alignment check are in the normal range, so before you decide how to weld the IE adjustable caster and toe brackets to the spare subframe you need to decide what you want to achieve from the IE brackets? Do you want to increase/decrease camber and/or toe, because that will dictate how to position the brackets and which way to slot the OEM brackets on the subframe before welding the IE brackets on to them?
              Actually that was the point of the thread. I have my on thoughts, but wanted to see what other people thought.

              Originally posted by exdos View Post
              How would that work? The IE camber and toe kit comes with 8 (4 pairs) of slotted brackets, so how can you put both toe and camber plates onto the middle OEM brackets? You need to weld the IE brackets so that you adjust camber on the inner most brackets and toe on the outer most brackets on the subframe.
              Sorry, I should have said that both camber and toe adjusters would be in the middle of their range when in the factory position. This is what IE recommend for toe. For camber I was also thinking with going with the middle setting due to my current values and to give me options.

              I fully accept that based on the current alignment value I don't need to do any of this. Since i obtained the spare sub-frame, already bought the IE kits and need to change the RTABs anyway, I figure why not? I do want sort the front camber and will be investing in some new top mounts for that.

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              • #8
                Simon,

                The IE adjusters give about 1 degree of adjustment. So, using the holes in the OEM brackets as my starting point, I decided to set the camber brackets so that my OEM starting position was the maximum negative camber position, so that I could reduce camber as much as possible. I set the toe brackets using the OEM hole as the mid position.

                I took the photo below when I did this job and it may help you. As you can see, I've set the brackets so that camber is adjusted on the innermost brackets.

                /// Exdos ///
                "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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