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S50 coupe boot lock and central locking fault

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  • S50 coupe boot lock and central locking fault

    Two problems here


    First, the key fob doesn't work actuator in the boot! Turning the key manually in the boot will lock and unlock front doors tho! Manual key on drivers door does nothing except open that door. Should I be getting 12v pulse to the rear actuator across the white and blue cables? I get no voltage on them wires when fob is pressed!

    Second I think I'm aware leaving the key slot horizontal on boot is a dead lock? When it's in the manual locked position should the press button be then be Fixed? As mine still wants to press in and then becomes stuck (I have to then wiggle it back out) surely this isn't right!

    Anyone else had either of these things?

    Cheers Paul

  • #2
    I had the same on a car I sold in the spring. iirc:

    - horizontal position is a deadlock and will mean the central locking wont operate the boot. This is handy workaround if your button gets sticky (as you note you have) as otherwise the partially depressed button can confuse the central locking.
    - with the lock in the vertical position the remote key fob and drivers door key should operate all 3 locks.
    - try spraying some wd40 on the sticky button and pressing it in and out.
    - I think I could lock my front doors with the boot key and that's normal. Cannot remember about unlocking.

    my long term plan was to deal with all this once and for all when replacing the corroded boot handle, but didn't get around to it.

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    • #3
      Yeah definitely need to take it all apart then and have a good look!
      So the lock in its dead lock horizontal position should press and depress freely?

      It seems my rear screen washer has been leaking through the wiper mechanism and leaking into boot and probably onto lock!!

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      • #4
        Any luck?

        Picture of boot internals,


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        • #5
          My two-cents worth: If the hatch (or door's) actuator isn't functioning, look for some broken conductors where the wiring passes from the hatch lid into the body at the LH C-pillar.

          I've encountered numerous examples where one or more (>1) broken wires has stymied owners and cost the needless replacement of actuator moduless. This symptom isn't usually identified until someone points out that the stoplight isn't functioning...

          The same holds true for the driver's and passenger's doors; if either stop functioning as they should, get in there, peel back the rubber accordion boots over the group of wires and start tugging on them individually.

          The specification for the individual conductors was not optimum; instead of fewer larger strands of copper that are stiff, the harness wiring, particularly where it is expected to perform with frequent flexing, should've been constructed with conductors consisting of a greater number of finer copper strands to be far more flexible.

          [/rant]
          Randy Forbes
          Sports Cars Plus, LLC
          Parrish, Florida, USA
          http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/

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