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Amsoil MTF - worth it!

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  • Amsoil MTF - worth it!

    Picking up on an old thread re the infamous sticky 5th gear I followed the advice offered by CW on here. That was to drain the 'box oil and replace with Amsoil synthetic MTF from opie oils.

    My 5th was a little sticky but not terrible but I was curious about the fix. Just to report back that after 15miles of driving it was pinging back to centre like a new one. Anyone having this issue then its deffo worth a try!

    Matt

  • #2
    post a link to this thread on the buyers guide page!

    Click here to email me

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    • #3
      This is definitely worth doing even if you don't have any 5th gear return spring issues as the gerabox benefits from an oil change anyway contrary to BMWs "lifetime" oil spec which is just nonsense. The shift on mine went much lighter and easier.

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      • #4
        would also be good to mention how much oil is needed, where to buy it from? price of the oil? how hard is the job (DIY or specialist) and any other details regarding the job i.e. tools needed, how many people needed for the job etc etc???

        Click here to email me

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        • #5
          Originally posted by indy View Post
          would also be good to mention how much oil is needed, where to buy it from? price of the oil? how hard is the job (DIY or specialist) and any other details regarding the job i.e. tools needed, how many people needed for the job etc etc???
          OK Here goes - no pics I am afraid

          I put my car on our ramps so it was elevated - perpendicular to the floor as opposed to nose up as with axel stands.

          Remove plastic under trays

          Drain oil from gearbox by undoing plug (iirc it’s a 17mm bolt may be wrong)
          Once done clean and refit
          Remove plug from driver’s side of gearbox about half way up.
          I then used a pump to fill the 'box with oil but if not you will have to put it into a squeezer bottle and fill until it starts to flow out from hole you are filling

          Allow to drip and then refit plug.

          Job done.

          Uses ~ 1300 ml of oil

          I got mine from here

          http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1051-ams...productDetails

          I bought two US quart bottles


          Allow time for the oil to work - mine took 15 mins of driving but it may take a lot longer ie a few thousand miles.


          Last edited by offyourmarks; 12-11-2010, 04:00 PM. Reason: zuul

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          • #6
            It's always a good idea to undo the fill plug first, because you never know you may not be able to undo it and you've already drained the fluid

            Paul

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Wav View Post
              It's always a good idea to undo the fill plug first, because you never know you may not be able to undo it and you've already drained the fluid

              Paul
              That's smart thinking

              One for the memory banks for future

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              • #8
                Good advice! (same can be used for the diff), but the gearbox ones can be VERY tight and they're hard to access!!

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                • #9
                  Old thread but good advice for anyone doing an gearbox oil change. One thing to add is BMW advise a sealant is used on the drain plug threads which I believe is like a white chalk? not sure if you can buy this separately but a Loctite alternative should be available.

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                  • #10
                    Also worth mentioning it is recommended to remove the gearbox oil when warm so drive the car before if possible but as you are working close to the very hot exhaust system care needs to be taken especially when removing the side fill plug.

                    I used a cheap but effective large syringe and pipe to refill the oil.



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                    • #11
                      Not sure on the thread seal, I'd be hesistant to use thread lock as those bolts get really tight as it is being a tapered thread.

                      Just doing the same job on mine this week! I bought a draper oil filler pump as the DIY pump bottle I had split.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by c_w View Post
                        Not sure on the thread seal, I'd be hesistant to use thread lock as those bolts get really tight as it is being a tapered thread.

                        Just doing the same job on mine this week! I bought a draper oil filler pump as the DIY pump bottle I had split.

                        I think its more of a sealant than thread lock so shouldn't effect the tightness, I used plumbers PTFE tape as the sump plug was leaking and didn't want to take any chances even though I replaced the plug with a new one.

                        I found the plugs tight but not that bad on mine but took a small breaker bar to remove them as with most bolts on the Coupe.

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                        • #13
                          Had a similar leak 6 years ago and PTFE solved it until the fluids were changed last year,

                          2012


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                          • #14
                            Good idea on the tape will use that! I think mine does have a similar slow leak.

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                            • #15
                              I tend to use a smear of silicone sealant (bathroom or frame) on the thread of the drain plug. Silicone will fill all the thread spaces, will set and is stable at temperatures up to 300degs or more. Works for me.
                              /// Exdos ///
                              "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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