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My Estoril S50, Chuffed to have an M Coupe

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  • #16
    Fitted my new Hayward and Scott exhaust a couple of nights ago, finished up by about 11.30pm after work but wanted to get it on.

    Fitted quite nicely, had to tweak on metal bracket slightly, and as you can see one side is not quite level, wanted to drive it though so will have to re adjust later!

    [IMG]Untitled by angus doe, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by angus doe, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by angus doe, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Stocking up on work supplies as none at the supermarket:

    [IMG]Untitled by angus doe, on Flickr[/IMG]





    Happy with the way the twin pipes look.

    Sound wise I have to say that at high revs its sounds awesome, it screams quite nicely. Also sounds good when the blip the throttle and idle sounds just about right.

    It is towards the louder spectrum for most I should imagine.

    However, there is quite a resonance or drone between 2-3k rpm, probably more than I would like. Not been on the motorway yet.

    I have spoken to Hayward and Scott and they claim that you need up to 500 miles for the drone to reduce and the sound to mellow out, a bit sceptical but I shall give it a chance. About 70 miles driven so far and it does seem to have changed tone a little.

    Here is a short vid of stationary sound. Will try to get some one the move at a later date.

    https://youtu.be/HKW2HeAFu_Q
    Last edited by urquattrogus; 14-03-2020, 05:27 PM.

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    • #17
      Found out there was a Dyno day on just 10 mins away from me today, so couldn't resist popping down for a quick power run.

      Car has been feeling very healthy but was curious.

      Video of my runs below:

      https://youtu.be/XMpjHV7Y9Mg

      Pretty happy with the results, that's about right for a standard S50????

      Standard apart from the Hayward and Scott rear boxes anyway....

      Graph:

      [IMG]Dyno Plot by angus doe, on Flickr[/IMG]
      Last edited by urquattrogus; 15-03-2020, 02:55 PM.

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      • #18
        Your torque / power lines look good

        Here's mine for comparison:

        IMG_20200315_152646 by mnbrennan, on Flickr

        Build thread: https://www.z3mcoupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19347

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        • #19
          Now, thats just showing off LOL I managed about 299.4 at the engine on my standard 100K 98S M3 3.2, the only time I ever went to a dyno.
          2001 E46 M3 Coupe for me / 2007 E91 335i for the Dogs.

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          • #20
            So, a couple of weeks ago my car went to Reddish Motorsport and they cleaned up some surface rust on the sills and jacking points.

            They did quite a long video on this which will be posted in the near future, will link to it.

            Gives me great peace of mind.

            They also fitted a braided clutch hose for me at the same time (Glad I didn't have the faff with bleeding up myself)

            Getting to love the Hayward and Scott Exhaust Exhaust now.

            Shame I can hardly drive it though :(

            I've done a few little jobs like swapping out the TPS for a new one. Replaced the screws with new allen headed ones which I think are much more robust than the original ones, one of which was very soft and rounded off. Think the idle and response is slightly better now.

            I also have some Performance Friction Front Brake Pads to fit, my discs are next to new so keeping the same discs. Should make a nice little upgrade along with some braided brake hoses at a later date.

            I fitted these same compound pads to my 916 3.0 Alfa Spider and I found the brake feel to be really good and confidence inspiring, with a bit more bite. No drawbacks with cold performance or noise either.

            I'm now contemplating whether to remove the rear axle and trailing arms to re-bush, blast and paint.

            I have plenty of POR 15 paint and various consumables in the garage.

            But will I get any of the other parts I need??, I don't want to end up completely disabling the car for a long time!!!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by urquattrogus View Post
              I'm now contemplating whether to remove the rear axle and trailing arms to re-bush, blast and paint.

              I have plenty of POR 15 paint and various consumables in the garage.

              But will I get any of the other parts I need??, I don't want to end up completely disabling the car for a long time!!!
              I've thought about doing this too. However held off, especially in the current climate, for fear of not having access to the expected snapped nut/bolt etc.

              Also, did you get the rear wiper fixed? Mine doesn't work, expect the motor has given up.

              I also need to get the aircon sorted, that doesn't appear to be giving me the frosty cold air I'd like too.

              Where did you get the new M badge from?

              Stay safe, in these strange, strange times...

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              • #22
                Originally posted by JPG View Post
                I've thought about doing this too. However held off, especially in the current climate, for fear of not having access to the expected snapped nut/bolt etc.

                Also, did you get the rear wiper fixed? Mine doesn't work, expect the motor has given up.

                I also need to get the aircon sorted, that doesn't appear to be giving me the frosty cold air I'd like too.

                Where did you get the new M badge from?

                Stay safe, in these strange, strange times...
                You've just reminded me I need to sort that rear wiper!

                Aircon wise you can try having it re-gassed and they will also add UV dye to try and spot leaks. Could be the seals/o-rings need replacing or something more serious like the condenser rad is broken up or damaged. The receiver dryer may need changing as good practice, or maybe the compressor is not cutting in? do you hear it click?

                Fun Fun Fun is aircon...

                The M badge is a genuine BMW part but I lazily bought it from ebay, looked up the correct part on Real OEM.

                Also added new side badges too :)

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                • #23
                  Detailed Video of wot Reddish Motorsport did to tidy some sill rust on my car.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99Ba7lictE

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by urquattrogus View Post
                    Detailed Video of wot Reddish Motorsport did to tidy some sill rust on my car.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99Ba7lictE

                    Great attention to detail

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Dave P View Post
                      Great attention to detail
                      Part of me thinks "I've got rotary wire brush and some POR 15" but the other part of me knows I wouldn't have done such a good job and I would have made quite a mess in the process!! It wasn't cheap but it does give great piece of mind!

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                      • #26
                        I’ve spent a couple of days removing the rear subframe and suspension to tidy up and renew it all.

                        A few swear words used along the way and the garage floor looked a bit of a war zone by the time I had dropped the subframe.

                        A few minor annoyances along the way.

                        Got through about two cans of plus gas penetrating oil and quite a few things had to be heated. I guess that’s what happens after 20 years on British roads!

                        Firstly one of the studs that holds the arb sheared off. Not a huge deal but still a shame.

                        The four infamous Allen headed bolts that hold the bracket onto the chassis and subframe leg put up a fight. After lots of soaking and quite a bit of heating three came out much to my relief. The fourth one on the lhs rounded off though, it was so tight I just could t get enough twist on it even hammering in an Allen socket with a big bar. An Irwin external bolt extractor came to the rescue! The 13mm one fitted just right on the head of the bolt, hammered it on and have it some welly, hey presto! Thank god for that! Recommend you have a set to hand if you can.

                        The final drop of the subframe was also a bit of a sod as the old soft subframe bushes seemed to cling onto the studs and it took a lot of persuasion to get them to slide off, the rubber was flexing too much etc. One side subframe bolt was also tight enough to start removing the stud and not the nut.

                        I also gave up trying to free the handbrake cable from the hub, even though all disconnected and soaked in oil, so cut through it, there was already a kink in one side so will replace.

                        It also seems to be quite an occupational hazard trying not to bend the brake backing plates!

                        As you can see the diff ear has a 2mm crack in it, floor welds all seem good so far just some light surface corrosion, going to inspect closely now it’s all out.

                        Lots of parts new amassing.....

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        You bugger!

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

                        Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr
                        Last edited by urquattrogus; 05-05-2020, 09:27 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Great work. I'm next. Coronavirus has a lot to answer for....
                          2001 S54 Silver with Red/Black interior. Totally standard.

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                          • #28
                            Thanks, trying to decide whether to powder coat the lot or blast and primer and then apply POR or similar.

                            Gut says powdercoat but my local place is closed at the moment, and once it chips off and water gets in that's it, whereas normal paint can be touched up and maybe isn't so prone to chipping.

                            Other decisions are whether to try and re-enforce the diff mounting or not....

                            The boot floor mods look quite daunting but maybe a small brace or doubling up of the Diff ear is a good idea??

                            To be honest I'm hoping changing the subframe bushes to poly bushes will help the diff mountings out, less movement etc...

                            Thoughts anyone??

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                            • #29
                              I thought about powder coating but have decided to go down the POR 15 route as I think it'll give pretty much the same protection (if not more with the anti corrosive properties), be easier to maintain and won't have the concern of water ingress.

                              I think short of the Randy Forbes / Double eared diff there is a limited amount you can do. When I had all the interior out of the car to fit the top mounts I took the opportunity to have the edges of the boot floor seam welded to strengthen the area held by spot welds. 9 years and 25000 miles later it's all good (fingers crossed).

                              Off topic, but where did you get that hydraulic lifting table from? Going to need something similar for my subframe when it comes out.
                              2001 S54 Silver with Red/Black interior. Totally standard.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Hatter View Post
                                I thought about powder coating but have decided to go down the POR 15 route as I think it'll give pretty much the same protection (if not more with the anti corrosive properties), be easier to maintain and won't have the concern of water ingress.

                                I think short of the Randy Forbes / Double eared diff there is a limited amount you can do. When I had all the interior out of the car to fit the top mounts I took the opportunity to have the edges of the boot floor seam welded to strengthen the area held by spot welds. 9 years and 25000 miles later it's all good (fingers crossed).

                                Off topic, but where did you get that hydraulic lifting table from? Going to need something similar for my subframe when it comes out.
                                Good idea, I was thinking about some kind of seam welding.

                                We do have a coded welder in our employ at work, might ask him to have a look.

                                The trolley is also borrowed from work, it's made by sealey, such a useful bit of kit the guys have three in the workshop and use them all the time. It's a 500kg one but other versions available too.

                                https://www.sealey.co.uk/search?q=platform

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