Over time the internal shutter / flap gasket, inside the heater box behind the MC dash deteriorates. The end result is that you have to use more force than usual to change the heating temperature inside the car.
Eventually the required force becomes too great and the plastic bowden cable clip connecting the heater dial to the heater box breaks off. You'll then just get full heat or no heat inside the car.
Now the ultimate fix for this would be to completely remove the dash to gain access to the heater box. Then replace the heater box complete at considerable cost.
My solution is quick and cheap, based on two modifications:
1) To fix a stopper to prevent the flap closing 100%. Allowing it to close just 98%, this stops the sticky deterioriated gasket coming into contact with the flap. This does not detract at all from the performance nor does any unwanted air or breeze come through.
2) To fit a modified cable holder with adjustment if possible. This will allow the bowden cable to operate properly. I sourced one off an old mountain bike I had.
To get started you need to remove the plastic cowling from the drivers footwell and gently easy back the remaining partition to gain access. A phillips screw driver is all thats required. Take your time not to scratch the screw heads or slip on to your MC trim.
Now for the pics.
Here's what one looks like with the broken cable clip:
Here's the job finished with the modified parts:
Somthing else to mention is that there's a micro switch on the heater control dial that switches on and off in the cold area (blue range of the dial). Therefore it's important to adjust your cable so that you still have functionality on the switch - A good way to be sure is to listen very carefully to it clicking on / off as you move the dial to the end of the blue section.
Hope this solution is helpful to you if the above ever happens to your MC.
Eventually the required force becomes too great and the plastic bowden cable clip connecting the heater dial to the heater box breaks off. You'll then just get full heat or no heat inside the car.
Now the ultimate fix for this would be to completely remove the dash to gain access to the heater box. Then replace the heater box complete at considerable cost.
My solution is quick and cheap, based on two modifications:
1) To fix a stopper to prevent the flap closing 100%. Allowing it to close just 98%, this stops the sticky deterioriated gasket coming into contact with the flap. This does not detract at all from the performance nor does any unwanted air or breeze come through.
2) To fit a modified cable holder with adjustment if possible. This will allow the bowden cable to operate properly. I sourced one off an old mountain bike I had.
To get started you need to remove the plastic cowling from the drivers footwell and gently easy back the remaining partition to gain access. A phillips screw driver is all thats required. Take your time not to scratch the screw heads or slip on to your MC trim.
Now for the pics.
Here's what one looks like with the broken cable clip:
Here's the job finished with the modified parts:
Somthing else to mention is that there's a micro switch on the heater control dial that switches on and off in the cold area (blue range of the dial). Therefore it's important to adjust your cable so that you still have functionality on the switch - A good way to be sure is to listen very carefully to it clicking on / off as you move the dial to the end of the blue section.
Hope this solution is helpful to you if the above ever happens to your MC.
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