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Replacing rear cv bellows

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  • Replacing rear cv bellows

    How easy is it to replace the rear cv bellows on the MC? it appears you cant buy new cv joints just remanufactured complete drive shafts but the rubber bellows are available ,


    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1105

    diff and half shafts need a tidy up so would like to replace 2 3 4 6 7

  • #2
    I doubt they'd be stretch boots so the driveshaft would have to come apart, so driveshaft out.

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    • #3
      I have ordered the parts so will see what turns up

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Dave P View Post
        I have ordered the parts so will see what turns up
        I've done them a few times, including Z3s and M3s; it's a messy job, to be sure.

        Your most daunting task will be the removal and replacement of the axles into the hubs__which you'd have to do even with remanufactured units. If the splines aren't too corroded, it's not to bad, but I've had a few that I wondered if I'd ever get them out! The correct tools for removal and replacement are a must here (you could bash them out with a hammer, but that won't help you to get them back in...).

        Also, any time I have both axles out, I swap them from side to side; since we don't run our cars as hard in reverse as we do going forward, you're putting the new load in the less worn direction than it had been (this was a tip from a racing mechanic btw, not something I dreamt up on my own).

        Some views on the subject.

        Pushing them out



        On this particular car, I was also replacing the hub bearings, so this is extraction of the hub__by force



        A mandrel is required to draw the axles back into the hubs (there's at least 3 different ones, depending on M, Z or ? versions of the chassis)





        More recently, much the same work/same tools





        Tightening LH hub-nut the easy way, using a 4:1 torque multiplier (with the reaction bar secured by the concrete slab, I only have the pull 75Nm on the 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten the nut to 300Nm)



        And then the actual boots/constant velocity joints (CVJs) themselves...

        Upon reassembly, the location of the locks of the Oetiker clamps must not limit clearance for the bolt-heads (and socket, especially)



        Get ready, LOTS of disposable rags/paper shop-towels on hand recommended



        The inboard CVJs can be completely disassembled, making cleaning in a solvent parts washer easy. The outboard ones are more cumbersome



        Turned out that this set was suspect (325i with an LS2 V8 transplant) and remanufactured axles were used instead of rebooting this set



        For comparision, here's an axle out of a Z3 3.0; expansion/contraction being handled with a linear ball-bearing arrangement



        In closing, remember to mark axles...



        ... and swap them side to side



        Incidentally, this particular EB Coupe is fitted with the very rare__and very expensive__Alpina differential cover (you can buy 3 Rogue covers for what this one costs).

        But oooohhhhh, the look, helped in part with a Stromung exhaust!

        Randy Forbes
        Sports Cars Plus, LLC
        Parrish, Florida, USA
        http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/

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        • #5
          There's me thinking it would be a 10minute job to replace mine!! I thought the 6 bolts off the diff output cups and undo the big hub bolt and pull it out nice and quick! - so are the outer shaft/splines invariably seized or just very tight in the hub?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by c_w View Post
            There's me thinking it would be a 10minute job to replace mine!! I thought the 6 bolts off the diff output cups and undo the big hub bolt and pull it out nice and quick! - so are the outer shaft/splines invariably seized or just very tight in the hub?
            I've had them come out pretty easy__on cars from places like Arizona (aka Arid zona) or Southern California__but if the car's seen much inclement weather it becomes a formidable opponent ...
            Randy Forbes
            Sports Cars Plus, LLC
            Parrish, Florida, USA
            http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the information and picture Randy I thought it would be a straight forward job but sounds like it may not be worth the effort. I would imagine most UK cars would suffer from the splines being rusted in due to our climate.

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