Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Noise through steering wheel

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Noise through steering wheel

    i have a noise coming through my steering wheel like a whirring/grinding but only on hard accelerating in first and second.i have changed power steering fluid and diff oil and had new guibo and prop shaft ballance a few thousand miles ago.i recently removed the steering wheel to inspect and did notice when removed there was slight play in splined shaft but when re tightened there is no play in wheel and drives solid and streight,it does not affect the driving in any way but it is anoying .any ideas,cheers.

  • #2
    Is it an engine mount issue? Something moving and rubbing, like the exhaust on the steering column?

    Comment


    • #3
      i will inspect them this week ,are there any signs i should be looking for with engine mounts..i was going to take auxillary belts off today and check all bearings up front just in case noise was transfereing from there.i will lso check prop centre bearing and guibo .thanks for reply

      Comment


      • #4
        The engine mounts tend to sag/drop a touch, and I think the manifold runs very close to the steering column. There's only two engine mounts, one on each side. The exhaust side is a real pain to change from memory (access is tight).

        Comment


        • #5
          thank you c.w you were right .i removed them today to find that the passenger side had split in two.as i reved engine it swayed to drivers side which would have contacted with steering colum.the passenger side came out easy but drivers side was a pain,there are also some awkward heat shields to remove.do you have any advice on replacements as there are the hard versions as well as standard,cheers.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by jess robson View Post
            thank you c.w you were right .i removed them today to find that the passenger side had split in two.as i reved engine it swayed to drivers side which would have contacted with steering colum.the passenger side came out easy but drivers side was a pain,there are also some awkward heat shields to remove.do you have any advice on replacements as there are the hard versions as well as standard,cheers.



            Heat shields can be left in place on the drivers side, I lowered the subframe by about 10mm to give enough space to fit the drivers side not sure if this is the correct way but it worked. I would stick with oe spec mounts for a road car.

            Comment


            • #7
              cheers dave,is the sub frame two bolts and just loosen the drivers side.i knew the new ones wouldnt go in as the old ones are squashed and drivers side needed some persuasion to remove.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jess robson View Post
                cheers dave,is the sub frame two bolts and just loosen the drivers side.i knew the new ones wouldnt go in as the old ones are squashed and drivers side needed some persuasion to remove.

                I think I had some wooden blocks under the sump and jacked up slightly and then undid the 4 subframes bolts by 5-10mm which gave just enough room to squeeze the drivers side engine mount into position.


                I am sure this method is very dodgy and dangerous but it was the only way I could see of getting the new mount in.

                Comment


                • #9
                  engine mounts

                  new engine mounts in and tested,what a difference.there is no noise coming through the steering wheel and the whole drive chain is better as in no nocks when changing gear and smoother.thank you for the help,i had to loosen the mount bracket to do drivers side which made it a lot easier.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Not the nicest of jobs, but glad it found the cause of the problem!
                    Last edited by c_w; 17-11-2020, 10:06 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Guys,
                      Wow, interesting thread.
                      My coupe has now done 122,000 miles & I have gone through the car fairly thoroughly to remove rust, sort out mechanical issues & generally tighten it up.
                      One problem that persists is the 'shunt' in the drivetrain. New clutch & flywheel, prop centre bearing haven't made much difference. Polyurethane bushes in the rear subframe have increased noise levels & added a little harshness to the rear of the car. However my boot floor is currently intact & the new bushes will help keep it that way, & the handling now is pin sharp (ask anyone who has changed them) so not going back to the rubber. No excessive play seems to exist in the gearbox, diff & driveshafts but the annoying 'clunk' persists.
                      I was beginning to resign myself to developing the 'driving technique' that disguises the problem.
                      Never thought of the engine mounts contributing to this, certainly with my mileage its a possibility.
                      Now I know what my next job is going to be

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X