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  #1  
Old 25-04-2008, 04:46 PM
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h4pry h4pry is offline
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Default MC DIY Brake Pad And Disc Swap -Write Up

Following my Nurburgring exploits my car requires new brakes. Well, strictly speaking its the discs that have expired however for peace of mind I'll change the both.

I was quoted £540 for this job by Cooper BMW Tunbridge Wells!!! So I told them to naff off and did the job myself.

Parts required:

Brake Disc OSF: 34112227738 £105
Brake Disc NSF: 34112227737 £105
Brake pad wear sensor: 34352227385 £9.10
Brake pad kit: 34112282554 £55

Total cost inclusive of VAT= £274.10

Tools required:

Socket set
6mm Hex socket
16 mm socket
17mm socket
Long nose pliers
Bungee cord

Consumables required:

Copper grease
Latex gloves
WD 40

Right, loosen of the wheel bolts:




Jack car up and place axle stand appropriately. Remove wheel.





Then remove the two 16mm bolts on the back of the brake caliper and remove caliper from disc. At this point get ready to support the weight of the caliper with a bungee cord. You must not place any strain on the brake lines. Then wiggle out the first pad but leave the second pad in place.

Now is time to undo the brake reservoir cap in the engine bay and place a G clamp securely on the old pad face. By tightening the G you can now very carefully push the piston back to its neutal position.






Now undo the grub screw (6mm) that is holding the disc. Do not use an allen key. Ensure that a proper hex socket is used.





With the disc removed and a bit of force you can now place the new pads into the caliper using copper grease as required (do not get grease on the pad faces if you can help it).







Now properly clean the hub with a wire brush.





Fit the new disc suitably lining up the original holes. I didn't torque the grub screw however in a perfect world it should have been done.





Carefully slide on the caliper to the new disc and re-tighten the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper.





Fit the rattle clip back on and apply brake cleaner to remove to protective layer / grease off disc.





Now's the time to fit the wear sensor. The new one BMW supplied was a lot shorter so I simply routed it round the front of the suspension strut and into the connection box.





Finaly I gave my spacers a really good clean before they went back on to my new disc / hub.





And we are done. All in all this took me about two hours to do both sides. My brakes feel so much better and I no longer get a vibration through the steering wheel when stopping.






Please note that a couple of the photos are a mixture of OS and NS (I forgot to take some pics so sorry for the confusion)
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Last edited by h4pry; 05-01-2013 at 04:26 PM.
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  #2  
Old 25-04-2008, 04:58 PM
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BEN BEN is offline
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good stuff! im going to do one of these for the next KW i do!
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  #3  
Old 25-04-2008, 06:25 PM
dalecan dalecan is offline
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Good write up. I would clean the hub prior to putting the brake shoes in the calliper and applying copper grease, as any dirt that comes off the hub may well get caught up in the pads and grease.
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Old 26-04-2008, 06:59 AM
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Jimmer Jimmer is offline
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Nice one, good timing too! Just got my discs and awaiting delivery of my pads. Plan to do this job next weekend.
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  #5  
Old 27-04-2008, 05:15 PM
wfarrell wfarrell is offline
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Nice one h4pry.

...it's helpful contributions like this, that make the forum so useful to Z3M owners :-)
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  #6  
Old 28-02-2009, 07:11 PM
Bob Crowe Bob Crowe is offline
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Thanks to H4PRY I followed his instructions to the letter and all was great fro 2K until I really used the brakes and now the n/s front pad is sticking again. What do I do, clean and service as before or bite the bullet and upgrade? Great car great fun and I intend to keep it so don't mind spending some money.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 13-05-2010, 01:55 PM
andrewturner andrewturner is offline
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Great write up, I'll be doing mine this weekend.


Does anyone know the torque setting for the wheel nuts?

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:14 AM
turbo blackbeard turbo blackbeard is offline
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This may be a very stupid question but if I am just replacing pads do I need to remove the disc?

Also Im guessing copper grease can be purchased from good ol Halfords (is it there to stop the pads sticking?)?

More stupid stuff...

Im also not sure about the logic behind pushing the pad back with the g clamp. Do I need to do this to get the old pad out? Once the cap is off the brake reservoir cap and the pad has been pushed back im guessing it will stay in this position because there is now no pressure in the system. Apart from retightening the cap do I need to pressurise it again somehow?
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:48 PM
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Spooks Spooks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo blackbeard View Post
This may be a very stupid question but if I am just replacing pads do I need to remove the disc?

Also Im guessing copper grease can be purchased from good ol Halfords (is it there to stop the pads sticking?)?

More stupid stuff...

Im also not sure about the logic behind pushing the pad back with the g clamp. Do I need to do this to get the old pad out? Once the cap is off the brake reservoir cap and the pad has been pushed back im guessing it will stay in this position because there is now no pressure in the system. Apart from retightening the cap do I need to pressurise it again somehow?
No need to remove the discs if just changing the pads. Yeah, can buy copper grease from any motor factor and it helps to stop the pads sticking but mainly to stop them squealing when in use.

The clamp is being used to push the piston back in that has come out over time as the pads have worn. You're taking the cap off the reservoir to release some pressure to push the piston back but when finished just put the cap back on - no need to repressure it, it will sort itself when you apply the brakes again.
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2012, 07:23 PM
Limbs Limbs is offline
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And don't dorget to pump the pedal until it goes hard before driving!!
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