Can anyone confirm the tightening torque for the subframe carrier nut #6
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Rear subframe mounting nut torque?
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TIS says :
"Rear axle carrier with rubber mounts to body" - M12 x 1.5 - 77 Nm
The reference figure in TIS confirms this to be the same nut #6.
It is a rather heavy duty nut so I have personally tightened it simply by hand "firmly". Therefore, the 77 Nm sounds very much like the correct torque.
Hopefully this helps !
br, JuhaThe older I get, the faster I was ...
BMW HP2 Sport
ex- BMW Z3 M Coupe - Cosmosschwartz Metallic
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Originally posted by JuhaV View PostTIS says :
"Rear axle carrier with rubber mounts to body" - M12 x 1.5 - 77 Nm
The reference figure in TIS confirms this to be the same nut #6.
It is a rather heavy duty nut so I have personally tightened it simply by hand "firmly". Therefore, the 77 Nm sounds very much like the correct torque.
Hopefully this helps !
br, Juha
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See here some clips from TIS : https://v2tre.wordpress.com/2016/03/...bframe-torque/
It gives 77 Nm for M12 nut and 140 Nm for M14 nut.
Better to check the size of the nut and if it is M14 then it will be 140 Nm.
br, JuhaThe older I get, the faster I was ...
BMW HP2 Sport
ex- BMW Z3 M Coupe - Cosmosschwartz Metallic
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Originally posted by JuhaV View PostSee here some clips from TIS : https://v2tre.wordpress.com/2016/03/...bframe-torque/
It gives 77 Nm for M12 nut and 140 Nm for M14 nut.
Better to check the size of the nut and if it is M14 then it will be 140 Nm.
br, Juha
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-22-mm-...kAAOSwWnFV-rpm
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Originally posted by JuhaV View PostSee here some clips from TIS : https://v2tre.wordpress.com/2016/03/...bframe-torque/
It gives 77 Nm for M12 nut and 140 Nm for M14 nut.
Better to check the size of the nut and if it is M14 then it will be 140 Nm.
br, Juha
The laptop I'm using right now is too new to run the TIS/ETK software (dammit :() so I can't verify what my shop TIS copy states. But historically, I've used 140 Nm for the studs, and 90, later upgraded to 110Nm for the nuts. I have an assortment of TIS/ETK copies__all bootleg from the good ol' days, I'm sure__from about 1998 through 2009, or 2011, and I have noticed them being amended over the years.
If you've ever attempted to remove those nuts and had the stud break loose from the body before the nut releases its grip on the stud, you'd understandably want to re-tighten the stud to about 500Nm; they can really be a PITA to remove under those circumstances (and anyone encountering such while laying on their back under a barely elevated car has my sincere sympathy)!!
So yes, I tighten the locknuts onto the studs at 110Nm, and when required, replacement studs into the body at 140Nm. So far, no phone calls, meaning no known issues.
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In only one (1) case, the stud was badly bent, so I had to get it unscrewed enough to use a plasma torch to cut through it.
The other times, it was corrosion that bonded the nut to the stud, so I had to work it out__remember, the bush is still held fast between the nut on the bottom and the hex-head on the stud__until I could slip a wrench into the gap to stop the stud from turning.
Don't feel (too...) sorry for me though, as at least I was standing up during all the drama, but it could've been a major curse-fest trying to do it on my back
So the short of it is, I've been doing just fine tightening the nuts on the bottom to 110 Nm (and as previously stated, 90 Nm before that).
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 16-05-2016, 06:37 PM.
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