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  #1  
Old 07-11-2020, 05:28 PM
jess robson jess robson is offline
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Default Noise through steering wheel

i have a noise coming through my steering wheel like a whirring/grinding but only on hard accelerating in first and second.i have changed power steering fluid and diff oil and had new guibo and prop shaft ballance a few thousand miles ago.i recently removed the steering wheel to inspect and did notice when removed there was slight play in splined shaft but when re tightened there is no play in wheel and drives solid and streight,it does not affect the driving in any way but it is anoying .any ideas,cheers.
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Old 07-11-2020, 05:31 PM
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c_w c_w is offline
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Is it an engine mount issue? Something moving and rubbing, like the exhaust on the steering column?
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:38 AM
jess robson jess robson is offline
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i will inspect them this week ,are there any signs i should be looking for with engine mounts..i was going to take auxillary belts off today and check all bearings up front just in case noise was transfereing from there.i will lso check prop centre bearing and guibo .thanks for reply
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Old 09-11-2020, 01:49 PM
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The engine mounts tend to sag/drop a touch, and I think the manifold runs very close to the steering column. There's only two engine mounts, one on each side. The exhaust side is a real pain to change from memory (access is tight).
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Old 09-11-2020, 04:41 PM
jess robson jess robson is offline
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thank you c.w you were right .i removed them today to find that the passenger side had split in two.as i reved engine it swayed to drivers side which would have contacted with steering colum.the passenger side came out easy but drivers side was a pain,there are also some awkward heat shields to remove.do you have any advice on replacements as there are the hard versions as well as standard,cheers.
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Old 10-11-2020, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jess robson View Post
thank you c.w you were right .i removed them today to find that the passenger side had split in two.as i reved engine it swayed to drivers side which would have contacted with steering colum.the passenger side came out easy but drivers side was a pain,there are also some awkward heat shields to remove.do you have any advice on replacements as there are the hard versions as well as standard,cheers.



Heat shields can be left in place on the drivers side, I lowered the subframe by about 10mm to give enough space to fit the drivers side not sure if this is the correct way but it worked. I would stick with oe spec mounts for a road car.
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Old 10-11-2020, 05:22 PM
jess robson jess robson is offline
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cheers dave,is the sub frame two bolts and just loosen the drivers side.i knew the new ones wouldnt go in as the old ones are squashed and drivers side needed some persuasion to remove.
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Old 10-11-2020, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jess robson View Post
cheers dave,is the sub frame two bolts and just loosen the drivers side.i knew the new ones wouldnt go in as the old ones are squashed and drivers side needed some persuasion to remove.

I think I had some wooden blocks under the sump and jacked up slightly and then undid the 4 subframes bolts by 5-10mm which gave just enough room to squeeze the drivers side engine mount into position.


I am sure this method is very dodgy and dangerous but it was the only way I could see of getting the new mount in.
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Old 13-11-2020, 03:55 PM
jess robson jess robson is offline
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Default engine mounts

new engine mounts in and tested,what a difference.there is no noise coming through the steering wheel and the whole drive chain is better as in no nocks when changing gear and smoother.thank you for the help,i had to loosen the mount bracket to do drivers side which made it a lot easier.
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  #10  
Old 17-11-2020, 10:04 PM
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Not the nicest of jobs, but glad it found the cause of the problem!

Last edited by c_w; 17-11-2020 at 10:06 PM.
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