My passenger window has started going slow, then as it gets half way down speeds up again... any help muchly appreciated, i was thinking that maybe it has just come off the runners slightly or they need greasing or something??
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I would check the window mechanism hasn't come loose in the door. There are 2/3 10mm nuts behind the door card which are easy to get to. My window used to strain and i tried lubricating it and it didnt help as i found the mechanism was loose and the whole thing was kind of twisting up.
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Silicon lubricant £4-5 from Halfords.
Open the window with the door open (goes down quicker) and then spray down the leading edge of the window runners, seems to do the trick.
You'll get better results if you take the door card off and get to the runners directly but can get a quick fix with them in place.
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Whilst you've got the silicone out to lubricate both window openings, you should also spray into door and tailgate locks the door, tailgate and bonnet catches and hinges. Also clean the bonnet switch for the alarm and put a bit of silicone on the mirror attachments and rotate them./// Exdos ///
"Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart
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It's quite a common problem, but I don't think lubrication helps. First try to open the door - there is significantly less friction between seals and window. If the issue remains, then its probably worn out small plastic sliders whats causing it. I have same problem with mine, but on drivers side. You can read more about it here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=709563
Its obviously inexpensive small part, but it takes some work to replace it.
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I guess you have two solutions now...but... i would certanly try the Silicone spray first..over a period of a couple of days...then just re-apply when you wash your car the spray eventually softens the runners..havnt done mine for a while now and still working fine.
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Originally posted by inside View PostIt's quite a common problem, but I don't think lubrication helps. First try to open the door - there is significantly less friction between seals and window. If the issue remains, then its probably worn out small plastic sliders whats causing it. I have same problem with mine, but on drivers side. You can read more about it here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=709563
Its obviously inexpensive small part, but it takes some work to replace it.
Looking at the top of the sliding door windows, the drivers side (which opens/closes effortlessly) is pretty much parallel to the roof line. The passenger side appears to have dropped at the front edge and is no longer parallel to the roof, so I'm assuming that is the issue - just wondering if it's caused by worn sliders or whether there's another way to adjust the alignment of the sliding windows. Any thoughts/experience?Last edited by Fat Tony; 13-04-2012, 02:27 PM.Not actually in the least bit fat
2000 S50 Titanium Silver / Black
ACS Suspension, Exhaust & Type III Wheels
Simota carbon air intake | Strong Strut Front Brace
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Don't know the answer yet, but my driver's side one has started to really sruggle to open the first bit; it's leaving the rear behind, if you push down on the rear it catches up and then runs fine. I guess that the runner has either worn funny or has gone out of line.2000 Cosmos Black S50, Kyalami/Black interior, KW V3s, H&R ARBs, Supersprint exhausts, Apex ARC8s.
1996 Dark Aubergine Escort Cosworth Lux with leather, GGR 305 chipped, GGR/Koni suspension, Black Diamond discs.
2008 Orange/Black Westfield Megabusa, FW rear, Widetrack/Nitron Suspension, AP/Westfield 4 pots.
Lots of Land Rovers!
No wife or kids!!
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Originally posted by Limbs View PostDon't know the answer yet, but my driver's side one has started to really sruggle to open the first bit; it's leaving the rear behind, if you push down on the rear it catches up and then runs fine. I guess that the runner has either worn funny or has gone out of line.
Exact description of my problem. Will get garage to dismantle and look at it next time it's in for workStrongstrut CL front brace-Yellowstuff pads/Castrol SRF race brake fluid-Rogue top mounts/Rear support bushes-H&R ARBs-Whiteline droplinks-Bilstein Sport shockers-H&R Springs-Black Halo Angel Eye headlight units-Sachs lightweight flywheel/matching clutch-Supersprint exhaust/race catalysers-BBS RSGTs with Falkens-K&N High Flow Air Filter-Recaro Pole Position seats - Exdos mod - ACS flippers
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My struggling passenger window pretty much gave up completely last week, which coincided with something rattling on closing the door. Prior to that, it had also got to the state where the front edge of the window would drop before the rear so it wasn't dropping as it should.
I took the door card off to have a nosey. The drop glass has two metal guides attached to its bottom edge that the winding arms run in. The rear one had come away from the drop glass and was sitting in the bottom of the door.
Unsure if this was the cause of the problem, or the symptom of another fault, I had a nosy around the rest of the mechanism and noticed that the long vertical guide at the front had a split in the rubber near the bottom. The rubber had kind-of turned in on itself which is what I think was causing the sluggish performance.
Being a little nervous about removing the drop glass myself, I booked the car in to Autohaus Diagnostics, near York, who informed me that the metal guide that had come away from the drop glass was supplied as an integral part of the drop glass, but that they might be able to re-bond it to the glass. They also advised that the rubber in the vertical guide at the front wasn't available as a part - only supplied by BMW c/w the quarter light glass assembly.
Anyway, the lads did manage to bond the metal guide to the glass successfully. They also cut away the bottom couple of inches of rubber from the front vertical guide, getting rid of the torn bit that had been causing the addition friction on the window and preventing it winding up/down properly. There's still most of the rubber guide there so plenty to guide and support the window in operation.
The window now works perfectlyLast edited by Fat Tony; 28-05-2012, 07:52 AM.Not actually in the least bit fat
2000 S50 Titanium Silver / Black
ACS Suspension, Exhaust & Type III Wheels
Simota carbon air intake | Strong Strut Front Brace
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