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  #21  
Old 06-04-2020, 09:56 PM
JPG JPG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urquattrogus View Post
I'm now contemplating whether to remove the rear axle and trailing arms to re-bush, blast and paint.

I have plenty of POR 15 paint and various consumables in the garage.

But will I get any of the other parts I need??, I don't want to end up completely disabling the car for a long time!!!
I've thought about doing this too. However held off, especially in the current climate, for fear of not having access to the expected snapped nut/bolt etc.

Also, did you get the rear wiper fixed? Mine doesn't work, expect the motor has given up.

I also need to get the aircon sorted, that doesn't appear to be giving me the frosty cold air I'd like too.

Where did you get the new M badge from?

Stay safe, in these strange, strange times...
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2020, 05:38 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPG View Post
I've thought about doing this too. However held off, especially in the current climate, for fear of not having access to the expected snapped nut/bolt etc.

Also, did you get the rear wiper fixed? Mine doesn't work, expect the motor has given up.

I also need to get the aircon sorted, that doesn't appear to be giving me the frosty cold air I'd like too.

Where did you get the new M badge from?

Stay safe, in these strange, strange times...
You've just reminded me I need to sort that rear wiper!

Aircon wise you can try having it re-gassed and they will also add UV dye to try and spot leaks. Could be the seals/o-rings need replacing or something more serious like the condenser rad is broken up or damaged. The receiver dryer may need changing as good practice, or maybe the compressor is not cutting in? do you hear it click?

Fun Fun Fun is aircon...

The M badge is a genuine BMW part but I lazily bought it from ebay, looked up the correct part on Real OEM.

Also added new side badges too :)
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  #23  
Old 22-04-2020, 02:31 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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Detailed Video of wot Reddish Motorsport did to tidy some sill rust on my car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99Ba7lictE
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  #24  
Old 23-04-2020, 02:58 PM
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Dave P Dave P is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urquattrogus View Post
Detailed Video of wot Reddish Motorsport did to tidy some sill rust on my car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99Ba7lictE

Great attention to detail
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  #25  
Old 23-04-2020, 03:03 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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Originally Posted by Dave P View Post
Great attention to detail
Part of me thinks "I've got rotary wire brush and some POR 15" but the other part of me knows I wouldn't have done such a good job and I would have made quite a mess in the process!! It wasn't cheap but it does give great piece of mind!
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  #26  
Old 05-05-2020, 09:02 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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I’ve spent a couple of days removing the rear subframe and suspension to tidy up and renew it all.

A few swear words used along the way and the garage floor looked a bit of a war zone by the time I had dropped the subframe.

A few minor annoyances along the way.

Got through about two cans of plus gas penetrating oil and quite a few things had to be heated. I guess that’s what happens after 20 years on British roads!

Firstly one of the studs that holds the arb sheared off. Not a huge deal but still a shame.

The four infamous Allen headed bolts that hold the bracket onto the chassis and subframe leg put up a fight. After lots of soaking and quite a bit of heating three came out much to my relief. The fourth one on the lhs rounded off though, it was so tight I just could t get enough twist on it even hammering in an Allen socket with a big bar. An Irwin external bolt extractor came to the rescue! The 13mm one fitted just right on the head of the bolt, hammered it on and have it some welly, hey presto! Thank god for that! Recommend you have a set to hand if you can.

The final drop of the subframe was also a bit of a sod as the old soft subframe bushes seemed to cling onto the studs and it took a lot of persuasion to get them to slide off, the rubber was flexing too much etc. One side subframe bolt was also tight enough to start removing the stud and not the nut.

I also gave up trying to free the handbrake cable from the hub, even though all disconnected and soaked in oil, so cut through it, there was already a kink in one side so will replace.

It also seems to be quite an occupational hazard trying not to bend the brake backing plates!

As you can see the diff ear has a 2mm crack in it, floor welds all seem good so far just some light surface corrosion, going to inspect closely now it’s all out.

Lots of parts new amassing.....

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

You bugger!

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Subframe refresh by urquattro gus, on Flickr

Last edited by urquattrogus; 05-05-2020 at 09:27 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2020, 09:56 PM
Hatter Hatter is offline
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Great work. I'm next. Coronavirus has a lot to answer for....
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  #28  
Old 06-05-2020, 12:48 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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Thanks, trying to decide whether to powder coat the lot or blast and primer and then apply POR or similar.

Gut says powdercoat but my local place is closed at the moment, and once it chips off and water gets in that's it, whereas normal paint can be touched up and maybe isn't so prone to chipping.

Other decisions are whether to try and re-enforce the diff mounting or not....

The boot floor mods look quite daunting but maybe a small brace or doubling up of the Diff ear is a good idea??

To be honest I'm hoping changing the subframe bushes to poly bushes will help the diff mountings out, less movement etc...

Thoughts anyone??
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  #29  
Old 06-05-2020, 02:07 PM
Hatter Hatter is offline
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I thought about powder coating but have decided to go down the POR 15 route as I think it'll give pretty much the same protection (if not more with the anti corrosive properties), be easier to maintain and won't have the concern of water ingress.

I think short of the Randy Forbes / Double eared diff there is a limited amount you can do. When I had all the interior out of the car to fit the top mounts I took the opportunity to have the edges of the boot floor seam welded to strengthen the area held by spot welds. 9 years and 25000 miles later it's all good (fingers crossed).

Off topic, but where did you get that hydraulic lifting table from? Going to need something similar for my subframe when it comes out.
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  #30  
Old 06-05-2020, 02:27 PM
urquattrogus urquattrogus is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatter View Post
I thought about powder coating but have decided to go down the POR 15 route as I think it'll give pretty much the same protection (if not more with the anti corrosive properties), be easier to maintain and won't have the concern of water ingress.

I think short of the Randy Forbes / Double eared diff there is a limited amount you can do. When I had all the interior out of the car to fit the top mounts I took the opportunity to have the edges of the boot floor seam welded to strengthen the area held by spot welds. 9 years and 25000 miles later it's all good (fingers crossed).

Off topic, but where did you get that hydraulic lifting table from? Going to need something similar for my subframe when it comes out.
Good idea, I was thinking about some kind of seam welding.

We do have a coded welder in our employ at work, might ask him to have a look.

The trolley is also borrowed from work, it's made by sealey, such a useful bit of kit the guys have three in the workshop and use them all the time. It's a 500kg one but other versions available too.

https://www.sealey.co.uk/search?q=platform
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