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MC DIY Brake Pad And Disc Swap -Write Up

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  • MC DIY Brake Pad And Disc Swap -Write Up

    Following my Nurburgring exploits my car requires new brakes. Well, strictly speaking its the discs that have expired however for peace of mind I'll change the both.

    I was quoted £540 for this job by Cooper BMW Tunbridge Wells!!! So I told them to naff off and did the job myself.

    Parts required:

    Brake Disc OSF: 34112227738 £105
    Brake Disc NSF: 34112227737 £105
    Brake pad wear sensor: 34352227385 £9.10
    Brake pad kit: 34112282554 £55

    Total cost inclusive of VAT= £274.10

    Tools required:

    Socket set
    6mm Hex socket
    16 mm socket
    17mm socket
    Long nose pliers
    Bungee cord

    Consumables required:

    Copper grease
    Latex gloves
    WD 40

    Right, loosen of the wheel bolts:




    Jack car up and place axle stand appropriately. Remove wheel.





    Then remove the two 16mm bolts on the back of the brake caliper and remove caliper from disc. At this point get ready to support the weight of the caliper with a bungee cord. You must not place any strain on the brake lines. Then wiggle out the first pad but leave the second pad in place.

    Now is time to undo the brake reservoir cap in the engine bay and place a G clamp securely on the old pad face. By tightening the G you can now very carefully push the piston back to its neutal position.






    Now undo the grub screw (6mm) that is holding the disc. Do not use an allen key. Ensure that a proper hex socket is used.





    With the disc removed and a bit of force you can now place the new pads into the caliper using copper grease as required (do not get grease on the pad faces if you can help it).







    Now properly clean the hub with a wire brush.





    Fit the new disc suitably lining up the original holes. I didn't torque the grub screw however in a perfect world it should have been done.





    Carefully slide on the caliper to the new disc and re-tighten the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper.





    Fit the rattle clip back on and apply brake cleaner to remove to protective layer / grease off disc.





    Now's the time to fit the wear sensor. The new one BMW supplied was a lot shorter so I simply routed it round the front of the suspension strut and into the connection box.





    Finaly I gave my spacers a really good clean before they went back on to my new disc / hub.





    And we are done. All in all this took me about two hours to do both sides. My brakes feel so much better and I no longer get a vibration through the steering wheel when stopping.






    Please note that a couple of the photos are a mixture of OS and NS (I forgot to take some pics so sorry for the confusion)
    Last edited by h4pry; 05-01-2013, 04:26 PM.
    Out: 99 S50 Titan Silver V876 KKO
    In: 98 S50 Estoril.......

  • #2
    good stuff! im going to do one of these for the next KW i do!

    Comment


    • #3
      Good write up. I would clean the hub prior to putting the brake shoes in the calliper and applying copper grease, as any dirt that comes off the hub may well get caught up in the pads and grease.
      From Z3 MC to Z4 MC... glad to be back

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice one, good timing too! Just got my discs and awaiting delivery of my pads. Plan to do this job next weekend.
        Jim.

        2000 S50 Estoril
        KW V3, Eisenmanns, Simota, G-Power, Wiechers Strut Brace, Whalen SM, HIDs, Angel Eyes.

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice one h4pry.

          ...it's helpful contributions like this, that make the forum so useful to Z3M owners :-)

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks to H4PRY I followed his instructions to the letter and all was great fro 2K until I really used the brakes and now the n/s front pad is sticking again. What do I do, clean and service as before or bite the bullet and upgrade? Great car great fun and I intend to keep it so don't mind spending some money.

            Any suggestions would be appreciated.

            Comment


            • #7
              Great write up, I'll be doing mine this weekend.


              Does anyone know the torque setting for the wheel nuts?

              Thanks
              Andrew


              2005, E46 M3 Carbon Black
              2007, X3 3.0d M Sport

              Comment


              • #8
                This may be a very stupid question but if I am just replacing pads do I need to remove the disc?

                Also Im guessing copper grease can be purchased from good ol Halfords (is it there to stop the pads sticking?)?

                More stupid stuff...

                Im also not sure about the logic behind pushing the pad back with the g clamp. Do I need to do this to get the old pad out? Once the cap is off the brake reservoir cap and the pad has been pushed back im guessing it will stay in this position because there is now no pressure in the system. Apart from retightening the cap do I need to pressurise it again somehow?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by turbo blackbeard View Post
                  This may be a very stupid question but if I am just replacing pads do I need to remove the disc?

                  Also Im guessing copper grease can be purchased from good ol Halfords (is it there to stop the pads sticking?)?

                  More stupid stuff...

                  Im also not sure about the logic behind pushing the pad back with the g clamp. Do I need to do this to get the old pad out? Once the cap is off the brake reservoir cap and the pad has been pushed back im guessing it will stay in this position because there is now no pressure in the system. Apart from retightening the cap do I need to pressurise it again somehow?
                  No need to remove the discs if just changing the pads. Yeah, can buy copper grease from any motor factor and it helps to stop the pads sticking but mainly to stop them squealing when in use.

                  The clamp is being used to push the piston back in that has come out over time as the pads have worn. You're taking the cap off the reservoir to release some pressure to push the piston back but when finished just put the cap back on - no need to repressure it, it will sort itself when you apply the brakes again.
                  2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    And don't dorget to pump the pedal until it goes hard before driving!!
                    2000 Cosmos Black S50, Kyalami/Black interior, KW V3s, H&R ARBs, Supersprint exhausts, Apex ARC8s.
                    1996 Dark Aubergine Escort Cosworth Lux with leather, GGR 305 chipped, GGR/Koni suspension, Black Diamond discs.
                    2008 Orange/Black Westfield Megabusa, FW rear, Widetrack/Nitron Suspension, AP/Westfield 4 pots.
                    Lots of Land Rovers!
                    No wife or kids!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Limbs View Post
                      And don't dorget to pump the pedal until it goes hard before driving!!
                      Oops yeah, kind of assumed that part!
                      2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

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                      • #12
                        Are these disks seriously £155 now?! Does anyone know anywhere to get them cheaper?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          front discs £103.34 + vat from bmminiparts.com

                          http://www.bmminiparts.com/DiagramVi...378&MOSP=48088

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by dave p View Post
                            front discs £103.34 + vat from bmminiparts.com

                            http://www.bmminiparts.com/DiagramVi...378&MOSP=48088
                            Thanks, that's a material difference! I'd just checked the Cooper link in the stickies. Are those the proper floating ones?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by breezer View Post
                              Thanks, that's a material difference! I'd just checked the Cooper link in the stickies. Are those the proper floating ones?

                              going off part number so should be, 34 11 2227737

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