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Replacing Rear brake shoes and cables

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  • #16
    Was your back plate cut down to fit the Brembos, Dave?
    2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Dave P View Post
      I am going to replace the handbrake cables at the same time has anyone done this if so any tips?
      Take the nuts and plate off from the handle end, and leave the handle lowered. The ferrules will probably be stuck where they go into the body (above driveshaft) but just twist them with Channelock pliers while pulling on them and they'll come out__penetrating oil helps. The threaded ends *may* get caught while pulling them out, and if so, just thrash the hell out of them while continuing to exert moderate tension on them and they WILL come out.

      Putting them back in is a breeze and they will go right into the handle with no effort on your part whatsoever.

      The ferrule at the hub end can also corrode, and though harder to get the pliers in there, same method applies.

      Adjust the shoes up to contact with the inside of the rotor, then YANK up on the handle a few times to get the shoes centered, and recheck adjustment. I think the TIS says that they should rotate freely with the handle on the first click, and then start to drag on the second click.

      If the cables aren't snug, they'll rattle (and do make sure to snap them back into thier clips on the tank and at swaybar mount), and though not strictly correct, I use the cable adjustment to fine tune the shoe adjustment (you should get them as close as possible via the screw adjustment between the shoes, using a screwdriver through a lugbolt hole).
      Randy Forbes
      Sports Cars Plus, LLC
      Parrish, Florida, USA
      http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Spooks View Post
        Was your back plate cut down to fit the Brembos, Dave?
        yes - not much left of them!

        Originally posted by Randy Forbes View Post
        Take the nuts and plate off from the handle end, and leave the handle lowered. The ferrules will probably be stuck where they go into the body (above driveshaft) but just twist them with Channelock pliers while pulling on them and they'll come out__penetrating oil helps. The threaded ends *may* get caught while pulling them out, and if so, just thrash the hell out of them while continuing to exert moderate tension on them and they WILL come out.

        Putting them back in is a breeze and they will go right into the handle with no effort on your part whatsoever.

        The ferrule at the hub end can also corrode, and though harder to get the pliers in there, same method applies.

        Adjust the shoes up to contact with the inside of the rotor, then YANK up on the handle a few times to get the shoes centered, and recheck adjustment. I think the TIS says that they should rotate freely with the handle on the first click, and then start to drag on the second click.

        If the cables aren't snug, they'll rattle (and do make sure to snap them back into thier clips on the tank and at swaybar mount), and though not strictly correct, I use the cable adjustment to fine tune the shoe adjustment (you should get them as close as possible via the screw adjustment between the shoes, using a screwdriver through a lugbolt hole).
        Thanks Randy should keep me busy this weekend

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        • #19
          New rear shoes and hardware fitted

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          • #20
            New handbrake cables fitted

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            • #21
              New discs


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              • #22

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                • #23

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                  • #24
                    They look great Dave.
                    Whilst we're on the subject of brakes, I've noticed people recommend yellow stuff brake pads within the forum: I'm thinking of changing my front pads, but wondered-can I use the original callipers and disks or won't they be compatible with yellow stuff pads ?
                    S54 M Coupe
                    D5 Alpina Touring

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                    • #25
                      Looking good! I wish my discs were drilled rather than grooved, something about drilled


                      Originally posted by Howiez View Post
                      They look great Dave.
                      Whilst we're on the subject of brakes, I've noticed people recommend yellow stuff brake pads within the forum: I'm thinking of changing my front pads, but wondered-can I use the original callipers and disks or won't they be compatible with yellow stuff pads ?
                      Yellowstuff pads are available as a straight swap for OE pads so will go straight on a standard setup. I've had them before and were far better than OE
                      2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

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                      • #26
                        Cheers Spooks. I assume ebay or Eurocarparts?
                        S54 M Coupe
                        D5 Alpina Touring

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                        • #27
                          I got mine from EBay, I think, but whoever is best on price
                          2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Spooks View Post
                            Looking good! I wish my discs were drilled rather than grooved, something about drilled
                            Yea, they crack

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                            • #29
                              Looking at realoem for the handbrake parts it shows items 5 and 2 but these parts aren't fitted as far as I know


                              http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0930

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Dave P View Post
                                Looking at realoem for the handbrake parts it shows items 5 and 2 but these parts aren't fitted as far as I know


                                http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0930
                                That's odd your picture at the bottom of the previous page clearly shows part 5 at the bottom where the shoes rest against.
                                Aceman

                                Arctic Silver Z3MR

                                Rocking seats ? You need seat bushes click HERE
                                ///M Badge Refurb available HERE

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