Other than screwing the number plate on through the mounting and showing screw heads or coloured caps, any suggestions how to stick them onto the bodywork, as I am finding it a nightmare, nearly lost the rear one tonight !
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I use the really strong adhesive pads (I think they are the branded the same as the "no nails" type of products).
They are then very hard to remove even if you need to and cope easily with the curve on the front bumper.
Not a problem with my current plate which is road legal but when I used to fit plates which would not comply with the MOT I would simply bluetack the road legal plates over the top. The MOT guys never had an issue with that.
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Originally posted by Jonttt View PostI use the really strong adhesive pads (I think they are the branded the same as the "no nails" type of products).
They are then very hard to remove even if you need to and cope easily with the curve on the front bumper.
Not a problem with my current plate which is road legal but when I used to fit plates which would not comply with the MOT I would simply bluetack the road legal plates over the top. The MOT guys never had an issue with that.
on my MC, i screwed the front one on (2 screws) and stuck the rear one on with normal pads!
if i was doing it again, id prob leave the rear as it was
and remove the front plate trim + fit a smaller 3/4 size plate stuck on with DS tape
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Its also a good idea to mould the plate at the front, otherwise it tries to lift the mounting plate away from the bumper at the corners. Over time these chaff the paint due to vibration.
To bend you need a heat gun - hold one end of the plate in a vertical position then heat the plate evenly from the front (text side) and the plate will automatically bend away from the heat and form a lovely curve. It will shrink back a little so over do it a bit. Also once done hold the plate at both ends to maintain the curve as it cools - this should set the plate.
Then you can mount it on with no tension in the plate
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Recently fitted new pressed plates with decent double sided foam tape and no issues so far, though as offyourmarks suggests, the front was gently bent to shape to minimise 'the pull' on the tape. I was initially concerned about having to put a curve in the pressed plate but it was very simple to do, and pretty much naturally bent to the perfect shapeNot actually in the least bit fat
2000 S50 Titanium Silver / Black
ACS Suspension, Exhaust & Type III Wheels
Simota carbon air intake | Strong Strut Front Brace
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Originally posted by offyourmarks View PostIts also a good idea to mould the plate at the front, otherwise it tries to lift the mounting plate away from the bumper at the corners. Over time these chaff the paint due to vibration.
To bend you need a heat gun - hold one end of the plate in a vertical position then heat the plate evenly from the front (text side) and the plate will automatically bend away from the heat and form a lovely curve. It will shrink back a little so over do it a bit. Also once done hold the plate at both ends to maintain the curve as it cools - this should set the plate.
Then you can mount it on with no tension in the plate2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)
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Went to to B&Q and bought 'No more Nails' on a 1.5m roll for £5.00. You can also buy 10, 20mm x 4mm pads for the same price, cheaper online though.
Works perfectly, good strong stuff, holds up to 50kg ! Used heater to bend the front number plate, bends easily when heating the front side. So, I am very pleased with the result. They look great . Thanks Jonttt and Offyourmarks, and others !
Just hope that I can remove them if I have to !
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